Le blog d'Iratze Ostatua

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By CHRISTINA PASSARIELLO
November 20, 2007; Page D4

What to do: All paths in the western Pyrenees lead to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The town is one of the official starting points for the Way of Saint James, the famous pilgrimage that leads to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. That and other famous hiking trails crisscross the region, a more rustic version of the Alps. Start by buying a trail map at any newspaper stand. The GR65 runs north to south through the town, tracing the religious route. Rent a donkey to carry day packs and a picnic, and pass by throngs of backpackers (Maison Jauregia, Saint Etienne de Baïgorry, Tel. 05-5937-4972). Take a break after eight kilometers of hiking uphill into the green slopes dotted with sheep to have coffee and cake by the fire at the Orisson refuge (Uhart-Cize-Saint-Michel, Tel. 05-5949-1303). The GR10 runs parallel to the French-Spanish border and the Pyrenees peaks. You can pause to taste the local wine at La Cave d'Irouleguy (Saint Etienne de Baïgorry, Tel. 05-5937-4133). Or join an archaeological walking tour to the medieval castle in the pristine village of Espelette (Iker Archéologie, Tel. 06 2547 3209).

The town is near numerous dramatic hiking trails.

Where to stay: True pilgrims will want to stay on the Rue de la Citadelle, a narrow cobblestone street lined with tilting brick houses leading up the hill from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port's cathedral. Maison Laborde, the oldest refuge in a 16th-century house, provides inexpensive lodging (39 rue de la Citadelle, Tel. 05-5937-0509). For more lavish accommodations, check into Chateau d'Etchauz, a well-restored castle in neighboring Saint Etienne de Baïgorry, belonging to an American couple (Tel. 05-5937-4858).

Where to eat: So much hiking over the region's trails calls for hearty meals. In Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Iratze Ostatua serves up locally cured meats, pork ribs and beans (11 rue de la Citadelle, Tel. 05-5949-1709).